Peaceful and better than ever mastered the magic Haider Ackermann once again captivated by exotic zen, his soaring tailoring androgynous dramatic and ultra feminine. Hieratic and slender woman Ackermann fascinating.
Winning seasons in precision, Haider Ackermann able to offer its clearest expression grammar, less random, where portability and scholarly constructions combine to give us the figures certainly still quite dramatic, but still much more accessible than in the past .
It is true that if Asian aesthetics and borrowings continue menswear in 2013 to compose the DNA cloakroom Ackermann, the latter did not gain less finesse and acuity.
On the podium, the famous YSL tuxedo is thus redesigned japonisant mode, while blazers flirt with discrete origami skirts and loungewear that expensive to turn into dandies subtle sets gown / flannel pants.
For their part, overlays iconic claw give birth to rock looks as finely qu’audacieusement chic. We think of the whole as effective qu’affolant combining speckled shirt, perfecto quilted coat lined with silk and narrow trousers ? (all seeing himself bent through a wide leather belt), but also to narrow jackets playing with bands of satin tuxedo ending in volutes.
We note in passing that when Daria Strokous, Karlie Kloss and other Ming Xi began to abandon their finery androgynous, it is better to slip into dreams of chiffon, they contact the tough pants goth / rock .
And if at the end of the parade silhouettes lose somewhat in impact strength is more complex (between cuts details samurai, mix prints, leather obi nod to YSL), this summer collection – paradoxically very opaque – does not appear in its entirety unless extreme elegance, beauty and universal lyrical charm is not devoid of pragmatism.