This season, between riot of vegetables at Dolce & Gabbana floral scrapbooking sketch in Christopher Kane and Prada Cadillac, unusual prints abound. That said, they are also originals, they are indeed subtle impressions signed Dries Van Noten successful for the moment to make the most of their own in the game.
At Dries Van Noten, no forced intellectualization clothing, conceptualization pushed to the extreme, or even futuristic experimentation: the muse of the designer is a woman with simple beauty, elegance, supple, bold tastes, but safe. A woman who appreciate their true value and innovative graphic compositions dense Belgian designer, especially when they see themselves associated with refined volumes likely to make the final product as elegant as neo-portable.
A wish Dries Van Noten, deciding to mix its three main pictorial themes – 17th engraving, printed tropical and urban photographs by night – in parts casualwear, a can not be more satisfied.
Between couture tribute to Cristobal Balenciaga (via many winks both stylistic grammar master as boleros and other bullfighters costumes of his native Spain), collages of unexpected images, vibrant colors, compositions blue / iconic black claw and urban sophistication, each silhouette show manages to renew the spirit with style Dries Van Noten.
How, indeed, not to be seduced by these volumes Balenciaga winning their independence in contact with the duo “engraving country / drawing lush”, these oversize army jacket with embroidery delicately pastels, this jacket strapless basque dramatically modern, these graphics tend to dream sixties, these fake white ultra structured, these smart casual shorts or these spencers than disown certainly not Nicolas Ghesquière?
Not to mention photographs of James Reeve which, when printed on shirts and other overcoats of the show, will discover an intensely poetic modernity.
Ultimately, if we regret the presence of peplum pants (not that flatter all body shapes) and the lack here and there this sweet delicacy we love to find in Dries Van Noten, the general impression intensely casually chic nonchalance mastered in every detail and refinement bold eventually far outweigh the rest.