At a time when Riccardo Tisci and Nicolas Ghesquière offer the essential minimalist expression delightfully feminine and graceful, Phoebe Philo feels about her serious difficulties to breathe a little unusual in its radical sportswear.
If the last summer parade imagined by Phoebe Philo is no shortage of deliciously chic and contemporary pieces (like the silky baggy at the waist encircled by twisting satin, leather bolero ultra soft or even triple bellows pockets), it seems no less devoid of a guideline. As if, like the bottom of dresses and skirts without hems or necklines mesh lined board floors, artistic director at Céline had forgotten to complete his collection .
It is true that between Helmut Langiennes silhouettes, loans Prada, misuse and casually excessive nodes, which we had previously used a strong vision of the wardrobe of the working girl seems to hesitate between dimension sewing today, nonchalance overrated and exercise style. A feeling reinforced by the presence of very confusing lined sandals, slippers mind post-pedicure.
A bit disappointing, this collection has certainly won to see a little more assumed. However, all is not rework: oscillating between androgyny Japanese style, contemporary poetry and sensuality satin incisive passages remind us that Phoebe Philo effect yet knows exactly how to curry favor with the fairer sex.