Between sobriety and extreme silhouettes nineties, the “first” collection – after seven years of absence – Jil Sander Jil Sander for questions about the ability of the designer to create a new dynamic to its minimalist grammar.
Which began 20 years to make essential sleek lines and sober colors returns this season with a collection certainly successful, but is nevertheless failed to incorporate the latest developments minimalist. It is true that the landscape of fashion 7 years ago no longer has much to do with that today .
Since its start in 2005 Jil Sander, Raf Simons and Phoebe Philo have indeed converted to sketch, thinking this last mode less austere, more attractive and definitely bankable. In this context, difficult to be transported with enthusiasm at the sight of ultra strict silhouettes Jil Sander .
Indeed, if the sets designed by the feisty sexagenarian have nothing to be ashamed of, we can only regret their lack of avant-gardism, which contrasts with the creative dynamism currently animating the Jansenist family style.
Having initiated a major stylistic trend, Jil Sander and finds himself in an uncomfortable situation: now “trendy”, his stylistic signature must be quickly redesigned, under penalty of being trivialized.
Therefore hope that the German designer manage to bring back the desire by injecting enough fresh and contemporary poetry to his tireless biases radicals (a sine qua non for hope to regain his status as leader of the minimalist movement). It will add it to his two favorite concepts – purity and integrity – that calls for air time, that sweetness, ultramodern, tension and mastered fancy millimeter.